Capitalism

Post dolphins, I had one day in Rio before heading inland.
It gave me a chance to say goodbye to my friends.
I said goodbye to Renato my beer guy.
I said goodbye to Maria my stew lady
I said goodbye to Priscilla my laundry lady.
I even said goodbye to a Police-man that I had spoken to the week prior. Police in Brasil wear a patch on their uniform next to their name, displaying their blood type. I had a little exchange with him where I said “Hey, I am O+ also man!” We high fived and
Ouro ptero (Black gold) is considered, at least by those wishing to categorise it, “the Cusco of Brazil" I should have remembered that apart from the pleasant manicured colonial charm, an of course the surrounding sites, I did not LOVE Cusco.
Ouro Preto, in the state of Minas Gerais was a mining town. To some degree, it continues to be a mining town. Now however, instead of gold, minerals and gems, locals mine for tourist dollars.
I have no interesting stories. Oh, maybe one. I was there for the final day of Semana Santa, Easter week. On this final day I followed around a parade of many, singing and banging pots of their heads. When the procession reached a plaza at the bottom of towm, an interesting re-enactment took place.
Judas, traitor of Jesus (right?) had been constructed out of papier maché. Exuberant children high on free lollies had strung him up by the neck and were singing and dancing. A public lynching always puts a smile on a child's face, in my experience. I was baffled. Really. I am no expert on Catholicism, but from what I remember forgiveness and thou shalt not kill appear once or twice in official documentation.
I arived in and Brasilia quickly realised why many advise against a visit. The guidebooks tell you not to bother. Travellers tell you not to bother. Brazilians, generally, tell you not to bother.
I first noticed the clay. Bright red clay has polluted Oscar Niemeyer and Juscelino Kubitschek’s Utopian vision of the perfect capital. Soil creeps up the sides of the white concrete buildings. Organic brasil, with its rich fertile earth tries to overpower this remarkably inorganic city.
Then, I noticed how regardless of the perfect plan, the city fails to function properly. The city is divided into zones; such as commercial, hospital, military, government, residential. This layout makes life difficult for Brazilians unaccustomed to such an oddly structured design. The Brazilian way of life certainly does not fit in Brasilia. Still, most Brazilians are very proud of their spectacular capital.
I spent almost three full days admiring this architectural playground. Built in four years (completed 1961) it remains a hot flat plain where stunning shapes dominate. Beautiful modernist architecture, creepy and abstract, demands your attention.
I tried to visit the Congress, but the day I was there President Lula was in conference with the foreign ministry, They would not let me in the building. Maybe I should have shaved and sported a black suit.
My final day was on April 21st, Tiradentes Day. Brazilian indepence day. Just like Indiana Jones and the Temple of Doom, on this day the sun rises in between two towers at the south end of the city. I woke early to witness this phenomenon, but it was a cloudy anti-climax. Oh well. Cool idea .
I had a great time in Brasilia, I found the inhabitants (mostly government workers) very friendly, helpful and accommodating. I left with my curiosities satisfied, confirming of an important travel lesson - go, decide for yourself.
Next up: Amazonia.




7 Comments:
Glad you were one of the few travellers to experience Brasilia, a vision realised deserves to be seen and contemplated. Is it ultimately a failure ? When is it z, when it is s? Love D
S in Portuguese
Z in English
I have muddled them up a little, I know.
What was the name of the architect who originally built Brasilia, I keep thinking Corbusier but doubt that my memory serves me? Don't they know that the church has vindicated Judas, it's been in the press lately. Look forward to seeing you soon. Gail
Did you purposely put the Gilberto Gil album at the front of the pile for the photo? love, the other D (with J and P as remaining initials)
whats the go on 'brazilia recordings'? It sounds a bit like canberra. no offense. but canberra is where elephants go to die.
Andy
It's a shame Brasilia wasn't so great but I think you have to see the good, the bad and the ugly in order to understand the true whole of a country (or at least I say that when I have to work in Dandenong!).
I have to disagree about Cusco though as I did love it - but I think I was just overwhelmed by the history there.
Keep up the education,
Yours, A now defiled blogger....
Hello Anon.
I think I have been misunderstood.
I did like Cusco, hard not to. BUT, I did not love it.
Historically, it was fascinating. However I felt it was a little lifeless: not street food, that kind of thing.
Very tourist friendly.
David: No, only noticed the album cover after I took the photo.
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